Reindeer day celebrations in Topolinoe
The IPY EALAT-Outreach/Information project among reindeer holders is in progress. Here is a report from the fourth EALAT Information seminar which recently wrapped up in Topolinoe, Sakha Yakutia
Obviously the dramatic changes following the collapse of the former Soviet Union have impacted the village specifically and the reindeer herding economy in general, but reindeer husbandry persists as do the Eveny people who depend on reindeer for the continuation of their ancient connection with reindeer, demonstrating their resilience, continuity and adaptation in the face of extraordinary change.
Topolinoe is in the Tomponsky Ulus, located on the Tompo river (which flows into the Aldan River) and is reached by a 20 hour journey on a gravel and ice road from Yakutsk, the regional capital - a journey that is easier in winter than summer and fall when rivers are free and roads can be impassable by mud. The route involves crossing both the frozen Lena and Aldan rivers which were nearing the end of their safe period for passage. Much of the journey is on the road to Magadan, a legacy of Stalin's infrastructural projects that made use of Gulag labour, several camps of which remain visible to this day.
The programme was full, kicking off with a celebration of Peter Pogodaev (Monday April 7), which was marked by speeches and presentations by village representatives, including the Mayor of Topolinoe, who visited Kautokeino late last year. Other diginitaries celebrating the 90th year of the famour reindeer herder included the Deputy Chair of the Sakha Republic government, Alexander Vlasov, and head of the Department of Agriculture. Several presentations were made to Mikhail Pogodaeva, a reindeer herder in the Tompo region who has done much to promote private reindeer husbandry and is himself a private reindeer herder. Speeches were followed by a concert (at which Lena Susanne Gaup yoiked) and dinner.
Tuesday April 8th marked the day set aside for the EALAT seminar at which Svein Mathiesen introduced the EALAT project, Johan Mathis Turi reindeer husbandry in Norway, Elna Sara the work of ICR, Ole Isak Eira his research into comparative herd structure, Lena Susanne Gaup the Sami University College and Philip Burgess the Reindeer Portal (there is internet access in the school in Topolinoe, offering the potential for future collaboration with students through the portal).
After the seminar, there was a brief meeting with Nestor Efimov, the sovkhoz Director and a veterinarian, Grigory Ammosov. Although private reindeer husbandry has been making inroads into the structure of reindeer ownership in the region, the progress has not been as marked as the Yamal Nenets Autonomous Okrug, as noted by Ole Isak Eira "I was surprised at how few reindeer herders owned reindeer privately."
With presentations by the EALAT Information team completed, there was a visit to Alexander Struchkov, the head of our host family, who was a member of Brigade #3.
There, reindeer were being gathered for the next day's reindeer day celebrations. While waiting for herders to return with reindeer, interviews and discussions were held with Alexander Struchkov, Maria Pogodaeva and Misha Pogodaev on a wide range of topics connected to reindeer husbandry and climate change. Alexander led a small group out of the camp to dig snow holes and discuss snow terminology and examine lichen and pasture quality.
Unlike their Sami, Nenets and Chukchi counterparts (the sites of previous EALAT Information workshops), Eveny ride reindeer and a herder riding his uchakh (draft reindeer) appeared some hours laters with about 30 draft reindeer, which were skillfully herded into the corral and reindeer work commenced with Sami guests getting the chance to ride reindeer. In the evening, the delegation was hosted by the Mayor of Topolinoe, (Nadezda Klysheyko-Kladkina) who visited Kautokeino in 2007.
Wednesday 9 April was the festival reindeer herders which was held 3 km outside Topolinoe on the Tompo River. There, approximately 30 tents had been set up in a rectangle and reindeer and people left the village in a long line, with several different regions represented, including the Momsky, Oymyakon, Verkhoyanksy, Krasnoyarski regions and even a representative of reindeer husbandry from Mongolia. The Sami delegation also participated in the raidu.
Along with celebratory speeches, there were reindeer races on sledges and riding and various traditional competitions such as lasso casting, the grand prize being a Buran snowmobile. As reindeer herders and their families were visiting Topolinoe for the celebrations, it was a good opportunity to discuss herders concerns from several different regions, even Nenets from the Krasnoyarsky Krai were present, who confirmed the FMI satellite and microwave images provided under the Polarview program of heavy snowfall in their region. Detailed interviews were carried out with Nikolai Mikhailovitch Osenin and Mikhail Petrovitch Pogodaev on traditional knowledge and climate change.
The day ended with prize giving and a concert, with Johan Mathis Turi handing out prizes on behalf of the Association of World Reindeer Herders - a giisa (a traditional Sami chest that is given to newlyweds in Sapmi) to the ‘best Nomadic family' as judged by a local panel, among other prizes. There was even a wedding of a young couple, after which the EALAT team were hosted for a final meal before departing to Yakutsk and home.
The delegation included EALAT project leader Svein Mathiesen and WRH General Secretary Johan Mathis Turi. Also present were students and reindeer herders Kari Makreda Utsi and Ole Isak Eira and Lena Susanna Gaup, Sami University College International coordinator and ICR employees Elna Sara and Philip Burgess. The delegation was hosted by Maria Pogodaeva, Vice President of WRH in cooperation with representatives of the village of Topolinoe and others.